Oliver Roustieng hosted his 2018 show on Saturday to present his men’s collection. I’ve been so anxious for his new men’s collection to come out not only because he is my favorite designer, but because he is a trend setter and everything he comes up with I see other stores and designers try to memic his collection. His men’s collection reminded me of Assasins Creed/Dark Rebel look that gives off this confidence and I don’t give a F#%* attitude which I love. Plus the colors that he chose for his collection black, grey, and white gave it a level of elegance that I don’t think no other designer can pull off.
Thus in this collection Rousteing etched his Frenchness in Balmain’s florid couture cursive. He translated Marinière Breton stripes so beloved of Gainsbourg into monochrome, then Balmain-ized them still further but translating them into glittering sequined jackets. He accented these stripes with a nautical anchor logo, sometimes delivered in crystal. There were also some gently loving homages to canonical chapters of French fashion: Chanel-esque jackets pour les hommes; high-jacketed tuxedos à la Mugler; a spot of Safari—and even a recurring glasses style—that whispered of Yves Saint Laurent.
The lace, beading, and embroidery work on women’s dresses and men’s jackets was both exact and extravagant. Yet sprinkled within the sparkle were looks like a black leather biker worn over a long fine neutral toned knit, black jeans, and boots: very much Rousteing’s own day-to-day wear. He wanted to reflect his own dress in this collection, he said.