Friday was the debut of Kenzo’s 2018 collection. Kenzo always come through every time they release a collection. What I mean when I say that is Kenzo always stay away from the norm when it comes to their collection. When you compare Kenzo’s collection to everyone else you do not see any similar trends that a lot of other house hold names stick to during any season.
With this collection one thing I do love is that every men’s look that Carol Lim and Humberto Leon created they made a matching look for the women’s collection. So If you like a certain print or pattern from the women’s or men’s collection you can buy the exact same outfit. Another thing I loved about the collection was the high waisted trousers and shorts which had a really old school look like the Great Gatsby era. The men’s section was inspired by Sakamoto’s sense of individualism, opening with a series of ultra sharp single-breasted three-button suits with embellished multiple ticket pockets and chain accents. But the designs sporting cartoonish graphics won out, recalling computer games and motor racing. They had an old-school raver flavor, with album cover T-shirts and prints supplied by the man himself.
Things took a turn for the eccentric with the softly constructed suits with roomy whirled sleeves in shades including deep purple, and the clown numbers in paisleys and micro florals. The textured colored knits, including a Rising Sun design, were great. Channeling Yamaguchi’s unique way of clashing patterns, prints, silhouettes and colors, meanwhile, the punkish pop aesthetic of the women’s collection was fun, especially the optical effects on looks mixing stripes, though the designers overdosed on the vintage-looking frilly slips.
In the intermission between the men’s and women’s collections, Egyptian-Iranian singer Lafawndah stood in one of the windows, burst into song as the colored spider-people sprang into action and performed a dance, using elastic bungee jump cords to move across the building’s facade.
It proved a distraction, but with the design duo being as equally clever marketers as they are savvy designers, it made for a brain-searing tableau.